BIRDING IN GARO HILLS

It was almost midday when we could see the thickly forested range at a close reach; the hillocks we were climbing were steep and grassy with rolling stones; our trek path sometimes skipped adventurously into a small patch and soon skirted out - a loud 5 noted cheeping call from one of these patches made us stop and look around; lo behold! There were longtailed broadbills around; one, two, four making chirruping calls - cocking their cute little tails from their perches. Two will sit shoulder to shoulder - soon one more will join them -there would be a commotion; more numbers came to our view and the patch seemed to be literally teeming with broadbills and nothing else. Not less than ten birds were present at that site. It was a moment to cherish for lifetime. 

We were on an expedition to survey the birds of the southern slopes of the Nokrek range as a part of the IBA programme of the BNHS for Aaranyak. We reached the Garo village, Darangre, on the banks of Darang river on 5/1/02 and stayed there till 8/1/02. Most of the area we covered crisscrossed with innumerable jungle streams and rivulets - the major ones being Darang, Jetra and Katija. Hence the habitat was basically riverine ecosystem, lots of jhum lands with a few cultivated areas near the villages. On the first day we covered the portions adjoining the Darang river; on the next we tracked along the river to the Nokrek range - but left out in between; on the third day we took another route via Jetradre village and nearly reached the foothills of the Nokrek; and on the final day we roamed around a few selected patches in Darangre itself. The trip was marred with umpteen hurdles- silly to serious problems were encountered in every step but the birds never let us down- every patch, every stream had its own share of excitement– bulbuls were aplenty– if Redwhiskered Bulbul dominated the jhum lands, it was the Ashy and Blackcrested Bulbuls which congregated around the streams and natural forests- a few Whitethroated Bulbuls were also seen though not in plenty- other bulbuls noted were Mountain and Black Bulbuls. Orangebellied Leafbird was ubiquitous - but not so common was the Goldfronted Leafbird - the bushes sometimes suddenly exploded into wild laughter of the Whitecrested laughing Thrush -but spotting them was an ordeal as we found out. The other Laughing Thrush we found was the Lesser Necklaced Laughing Thrush. Many a time we heard the distant hoo-hoo calls of the elusive Hoolock Gibbon, but could not manage to get a glimpse of it. 

Good numbers of Drongos were also observed- Spangled and Bronzed being the most common- Lesser and Greater Racket-tailed being a little rare. It was our personal opinion that if one starts spending time on Leaf Warblers, there is something wrong with the birdlife around - since the situation was the contrary, we skipped most of the warblers and hence the only Leaf Warblers we are quite sure of are Greenish and Dusky - both quite confirmable since we knew their calls as well. But two species of beautiful Spectacled Warblers (White and Greycheeked) were noted quite common throughout - once we learn their calls they may be seen in every other bush. Hornbills were what we were after - Oriental Pied Hornbills were sighted in the interiors as well as near the villages - but we could manage only the calls of the Great Pied Hornbill - the Garo tribal seems to suggest that the Rufousnecked might also be present in the Nokrek range - one has to look for this species. Once we were puzzled by a loud croaking call in the hillocks and the Garo tribal identified it (from Grimmett) to be the Peacock Pheasant - though we reached very near the calls and one of us coarsely(!) imitated them there did not seem to be any ‘birdy’ movement from that spot and the calls continued emanating from the same place - hence we think it might be some amphibian - but who knows the Garo may be right - he has got a good amount of jungle knowledge – he identified the Mountain Imperial Pigeon from its calls. 

Woodpeckers were not seen in plenty – Greater Yellownape was the most common – Bay (?) Woodpecker (which we earlier thought to be Rufous Woodpecker) being the next in line. But what was a real treat was the diminutive Whitebrowed Piculet – almost silently pecking on a twig -the drumming we could easily have missed but for our luck; the bird looked as if someone has splayed colors on an elongated table-tennis ball. We also saw the Greycrowned Pigmy Woodpecker making a few (?) holes (it had made already three) and entered into one of them. 

Raptors certainly were few, Kestrel and Crested Serpent Eagle were the only ones we could manage with certainty - but we were surprised when a solitary Black Stork flew overhead in the evening towards the Nokrek range. 

Riverine patch was certainly rich - usual birds were Olivebacked Pipit, Blackbacked Forktail and Plumbuous Redstart; occasionally River Chat and Blue Whistling Thrush and once we saw the Slatybacked Forktail also. We got a single sighting of the Crested Kingfisher as it flew across the Dareng river. Other interesting birds were Minivets - Ashy, Scarlet and probably Longtailed (or Shortbilled); Yuhinas - Whitebellied, which was quite common in the most of the hunting troupes and Striated – six birds were found sailing over the canopy from treetop to treetop; their white-tipped tail diagnostic even in flight. The Green Magpie was observed a few times - mostly we see the white bordered tail as it gets flushed from low branches of the trees. Redheaded Trogons were also observed - all singletons. A few sightings of Puffthroated Babblers were also made; churring, purring, 'sweech'ing and 'wesweech'ing through the undergrowth. Oriental Turtle Doves were found near the habitation - sizable congregations were noted feeding on the cultivated lands. Common Swifts were seen flying over most of the time- flocks of 10-15 could be observed from open areas. Interestingly, parakeets were conspicuous by their absence - none were observed in the previous survey in the northern range also.   

Once we were having trouble identifying a female Thrush with streaks in the throat - luckily the male soon dropped by and we found them to be a pair of Tickell's Thrush. Streaked Spiderhunter was seen once while the Little was always around -many flowerpeckers were left unidentified except for a male Scarletbacked. Maroon Oriole was seen a few of times - sometimes in hunting flocks. Altogether 86 species were recorded in two full days and two half days – many warblers and other hill birds left unidentified; the whole trip was very rewarding as we got a great chance to get familiarized with the north east hill birds; though the area seems fantastic, relentless coal mining is eating up the hills. The business seems quite lucrative as every other person in the village is working in these quarries. Another serious problem is the shifting agriculture being practiced here - the whole of the natural forest is threatened due to this problem. We need to chalk out the possible course of action that can be taken for the conservation of this habitat.  

Notes

  • The original trip report has first appeared as a posting in the e-group Birds of North-East India. It was rewritten after a discussion in the e-groups.   

  • Aaranyak has received a small grant from BNHS to conduct Ornithological survey at Nokrek National Park. The first survey conducted in September came up with 110 species in four days. This is the second in the series. 

  • The sighting of Ashy Minivet is an important record for North East India. The Grimmett's book does not show any dots or crosses in the map for this region. One female was observed from two perches near Dareng river (5/1/02) - there was no trace of yellow or red anywhere on its body - later it flew on to an open branch in bright sunlight giving us a good view of its features. Dr. Hillol Jyoti Singha informed us that he had seen Ashy Minivet during the earlier survey of the northern slopes of Norkrek. But, Mr. Paul Thompson cautioned that females of Ashy Minivets are liable to be confused with Brownbacked Minivet (a recent split from Rosy Minivet) which is more wide spread in the neighboring Bangladesh than Ashy Minivet.


Bibhuti Prasad Lahkar                                 Praveen J

© Aaranyak 2005, Email: aaranyak@vsnl.net
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